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Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.



Small example photo of furniture.

Order Information

Starting the Process

Please contact me by phone or email to discuss an order for one of the pieces you see on my website, or a variation, or an entirely new design.


My basic material is solid wood of various species, primarily domestic hardwoods like maple, cherry, walnut and oak. There are many variations in color, grain, and other inherent qualities, among species and even within the same trees, plus small knots, mineral streaks, irregular grain, small air cracks, small bug holes and other beauty marks, all of which affect the appearance and reflect the unique character of that particular piece. These are naturally occurring phenomena and are not considered defects.

Often, as I slice boards for book (or slip)-matching, I will find that the color is darker on one side than the other, despite having been directly adjacent to each other. Therefore, there is a measure of unpredictability in the materials that may often affect the final appearance. I pick boards individually and strive to achieve the best possible match, but sometimes this is not possible.

Wood is hygroscopic which means that it is capable of easily absorbing and releasing moisture in relationship to the ambient air: contracting and expanding, based on changes in humidity. When work is placed in high stress conditions such as direct sunlight, near a heating or air conditioning duct or in high moisture content environments such as a room with a Jacuzzi or water fountain, the odds are increased that the piece can warp and/or crack due to this expansion and contraction. So be careful.


There is no one best finish: each has its advantages and disadvantages. Currently, I primarily use an oil finish with an extremely low volatile organic compound content, but it may need to be re-applied at least once per year, depending on usage and ambient environment. Otherwise, I tend to use an acrylic lacquer or polyurethane finish, both of which require less maintenance and are more resistant to alcohol and water damage (though both should be wiped up immediately) than an oil finish. But an oil finish is easier to repair than the others when it comes to minor scratches and dings.

Occasionally, I stain pieces, usually with water-base aniline stains. These aniline stains do not camouflage the beauty of the wood. And, occasionally I use milk paints, Japan colors and other forms of coloration. If final color is a critical issue for the client, I can make a wood sample for the client when the work is to be stained, or otherwise colored, but the client must always understand that the wood sample might look differently on the finished work. The pieces are made out of numerous smaller pieces glued together. Each piece of wood can have a different density and absorb the stain with a different intensity. The sample and the finish piece can look drastically different due to the lighting conditions depending upon when and where viewed. A stain under incandescent light will look quite different when viewed in the same location under natural daylight and can look even “foreign” under florescent lights.

The Commission Process and Design Fees

Since I work on speculative and commissioned pieces year-round, there is no standard lead time for a piece of work. Scheduling depends upon the design and scale of the work, as well as the current status of my other projects. Projects often take from four to twelve weeks from the starting date.

I like to meet and spend some preliminary time with my clients, preferably in the location where the piece will ultimately reside, to help me consider size, materials, and aesthetics. I generally do not charge for this initial meeting, except traveling expense if I have to travel more than 30 miles. If we agree to move forward with the design and estimate phase, I require a nonrefundable deposit of approximately ten percent of the probable price, or $150, whichever is higher, for my design work. For additional designs, or design time, there will be an hourly fee of $35 per hour (as of June 1, 2010, subject to adjustment without prior notice, but confirmed and fixed in writing in the ultimate Custom Furniture Agreement).The design fees may be applied towards the purchase of the work, depending on the situation.

Ordering the Work and Design Change Fees

There is no design fee if a piece is being ordered from an existing work and there are no changes in the design or the size. There will be a design fee if there are changes which require new templates or patterns made. These fees depend entirely on the number and extent of changes needed and will be included in the final purchase price of the work.

A Custom Furniture Agreement must be completed and signed by all parties once the design is approved. At this time a tentative delivery date is scheduled and a 50% deposit is required to start the work. Any subsequent changes to the piece, and resulting price changes, if any, must be signed by both parties before further work can be performed. The balance is due upon completion, prior to shipping or delivery of the work.

Shipping and Crating

I will deliver, at no extra charge, any piece which fits in my vehicle and which I can handle by myself or with the client’s help, within a 30 mile radius of my studio. Beyond that radius I charge an hourly rate plus whatever is the then current IRS vehicle mileage deduction allowance. For greater distances, depending on the nature of the individual piece, shipping may be blanket wrapped in a moving van or crated for a common carrier. Blanket wrapped delivery can be considerably more than shipping in a crate via common carrier and may also delay delivery about three to four weeks; however, blanket wrapping usually includes inside delivery and any set-up, if required (there may be an extra charge for numerous steps, etc.) and there are no packing materials to dispose of. Most crating services cost between $300.00 to $1000.00, depending on the size.

Truck lines add on for residential delivery, lift gate delivery and fuel charges-to name a few. I use mostly FedEx Freight LTL or the specialty division of North American Van Lines. Work is generally shipped F.O.B (freight on board) Lamy, NM, though occasionally I deliver the piece to a truck in Santa Fe, NM.

I will provide an estimate of all shipping, crating and handling fees to the client at the time of commissioning the work.


Although this process may seem intimidating at first, it is actually very straightforward and simple: not as simple as buying something at the store, but this way you get exactly what you want and for something not available at a store. I hope to establish a clear and trusting relationship in which any questions or possible misunderstandings can be resolved quickly and satisfactorily. Additionally, I warrant my work to the original purchaser against defects in workmanship for the life of the piece. I want you to be completely happy with the work, perhaps buying more and telling all your friends about my work.

Note: The above fees and pricing are subject to change without notice.


American Craft Council logo.
American Craft
American Association of Woodturners logo.
American Association
of Woodturners
Furniture Society logo.
Furniture Society

Small example photo of furniture. Sustainable